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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.